I have really got very little time left in Nicaragua! However to comply with the tourist visa rules last week Kat and I went to San Jose in Costa Rica for a few days outside the country so that we could re-enter and finish our stay legally.
San Jose is a very big city. Perhaps it is the effect of living in a small, jumbly, Nicaraguan "city", where horses and carts are still a feature of everyday life, but for me SJ was quite overwhelming. So much traffic, so many American chain stores and other shops selling cheap plastic goods, fast food restaurants, punky disaffected youth culture, concrete, peeling paintwork.

We stayed with my Nica Uncle and his family in a suburb of SJ, overlooking the city which is surrounded by cloud -topped mountains. It is the perfect setting for a city, but travelling into the centre on conjested roads past the half finished urban sprawl and arriving at a destination where the main attractions are shopping centres and American restaurants was somewhat a disappointment.
This is perhaps a little harsh. There are some pretty bits of SJ, and there is evidence of cultural corners. The national stadium (built by the Chinese) is very impressive, and is set in the midst of an expansive park with a lake, a public running track, wooded areas, sculpture and a swimming pool. My Uncle, Aunt and cousins love living in the city and find life very convenient. For them SJ, and Costa Rica in general has lifted itself from all of the problems that Nicaragua has and life is much better. They can choose from a number of supermarkets, eat in Pizza Hut, go to the cinema, ride on big new buses, be guaranteed a paved road...

But what about knowing the women in the market that you buy produce from? Being assured that the fruit and veg is local and fresh? The interesting mix that living in a small, hectic city provides is lost in SJ and I will miss it in Britain too. I can never guarantee that there will be water in the tap 24 hours a day or that the bus will actually come or that I will be able to buy exactly what I want at the shop or in the market...but all that adds a little sponteneity and adventure to life.
Josef, me and Tio Cesar